![]() ![]() I didn’t add this panel previously as I wanted access on both sides of the router table while things were being installed, but with all that done, I got the back panel cut out at the bandsaw, added glue to the back edges of the cabinet, and tacked the panel in place with more brad nails.įinally, with the help of my buddy Eddie, I got the router table flipped over and we could admire this gorgeous Rockler cast iron top.Īfter cleaning off the packing grease, I added a little Boeshield T9 to prevent the top from rusting, and then I could get the router lift installed. With everything installed on the router table, I decided to go ahead and add the back panel as well, which really helps the cabinet resist racking forces over time. ![]() Unfortunately, I hadn’t accounted for those mounting bolts when cutting the clearance areas, so I had to repeat the process off camera and route those areas a little deeper before finally lifting the cabinet into place for the final time and getting the mounting bolts added. I got the Dust Bucket mounted to the underside of the table top using the included bolts and then I could finally get the cabinet added to the underside of the top. The last step in the drawer box construction was to reinforce the corners with a few screws, since I didn’t add any glue there, and I used these 1 ½” self drilling screws, which have become a favorite of mine when working with plywood. I referenced the drawer bottom when assembling the drawer sides and, as long as they lined up, the drawer box would end up square.įinally, I flipped the drawer over and added more brad nails to hold the bottom panel in place while the glue dried.īefore the glue had a chance to set up, I used the straw trick to remove any squeeze out from the inside corners of the drawer box, running the straw along that inside corner. This line is where you will center your top and bottom drawer slide. Mark a center line on the top piece and turn it over to make a center line on the bottom. Now you can get them for free In episodes 1 & 2 of Season 2 we build an updated. Cut a 14 1/2' piece for the middle and drill a series of 1/4' and 1/2' holes in it. To assemble the drawers, I first added a bead of glue around the perimeter of the drawer bottom, which I also cut from ½” plywood so that the drawer was nice and sturdy, and then I tacked the sides together with my Arrow PT18G brad nailer. The Folding Router Table plans have been our best seller for 6 years. I made sure to cut the pieces in a way that referenced the factory edges of the pieces initially, but I made sure to cut off that factory edge on the last cuts so that I was left with super clean edges on the parts. Next, I cut the pieces for the the drawers, which I made from ½” Baltic Birch plywood, over at the table saw. ![]()
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